Marmandais, Southwest FranceÉlian Da Ros’s wines are the reference standard for their appellation and some of the greatest values in all of France (or the world, for that matter). Working biodynamically, Da Ros combines the traditional Bordeaux varietals Cabernet Franc (50%) and Merlot (30%) with the Rhône’s noble Syrah (20%) to create this delicious, refined, and complex red. The 2015 bursts with sappy, old-vine aromas of black plums, cassis, tar, garrigue, and baker’s chocolate. The wine then fills the senses with a deep, chewy kernel of black fruits, tar, game, tobacco, and menthol followed by soft tannins and delicious barrel tones of toffee and smoke. Its silky texture and plush mouth-feel would not be out of place in a lineup of top-notch St. Emilions and Pomerols. Generous now but with plenty in reserve, the wine finishes Right-Bank-style with gamy black fruits accented by reprises of cocoa and limestone minerals. Buy this wine by the case and enjoy it now and over the coming decade with rib roast, roast lamb, gratin dauphinois, and rich eggplant recipes. Do not delay, as all previous vintages have sold out in short order.
A December 2018 newsletter selection
