Douro Valley, Portugal
After a decade as Niepoort’s winemaker, Luis Seabra followed his own star to craft wines using minimal intervention, and the result here is a world-class offering. A blend of 30- to 45-year-old Rabigato (50%), Codega (20%), Gouveio (15%), and Viosinho grown on mica schist 1650-1950 feet above sea level, Seabra’s Xisto Ilimitado casts a brilliant straw gold from the glass followed by aromas of smoky schist-infused pear, yellow plum, and white currant fruit. Performing akin to a premier cru white Burgundy on the palate, the Xisto Ilimitado fuses a pure orchard fruit expression with subtle barrel notes, all buoyed by a persistent mineral undercurrent. Juicy, pure, and utterly delicious, the wine finishes with a haunting floral suggestion of sweet gardenia blossom. Enjoy this delicious taste of the Douro now and over the coming three years as you would a fine Chablis or Puligny-Montrachet, served with oysters on the half-shell, seafood and vegetable tapas, poultry and fish dishes, and rich green vegetable preparations.
A December 2018 newsletter selection
