Rias Baixas, Galicia, Spain
This is sensational, uncompromising Albariño that sets a new reference point for the variety and is worth every penny and more. Spain’s Rías Baixas zone is tucked into the green rolling hills of the country’s northwest corner, just above Portugal and hugging the Atlantic coastline. Rías Baixas’s Val do Salnés subregion – the birthplace of Albariño – is the denominación’s coolest and most fertile sector, featuring pure granite soils perfect for the expression of fresh, zesty Albariño. Crafted from decades old vines, the Bodegas Forjas del Salnés’ Leirana reflects a brilliant lemon-gold hue accented by lime green highlights. Give the wine a vigorous swirl and gorgeous brine-tinged aromas of lemon zest, sweet pears, honeysuckle, and quinine fill the glass. Brisk, intense, and incisive on the palate, salt and mineral-tinged impressions of lemon and Key lime juice, fresh ginger, and quinine come to the fore. The wine finishes with reprises of citrus juice, white flowers, juicy ginger, and salty minerals lifted by shimmering acidity. While it will perform well all on its own as an attention-grabbing apéritif, you’ll ideally pair the Leirana now and over the coming five years with freshly shucked scallops, calamari, clams, oysters, Dungeness crab, and shellfish tapas.
A March 2022 newsletter selection
