Year in and year out, the Bodegas Muga is one of our go-to producers of traditional white, rosé, and red Rioja. While we love Muga’s rosé and red wines, our vote for their most distinctive and compelling wine is their resinous, barrel-aged Blanco. Muga’s 2020 Blanco fuses Viura (70%) with Malvasia and Garnacha Blanca, all fermented and aged in oak. Like other great Rioja blancos, the Viura effortlessly absorbs the wood and seamlessly integrates its flavors into the wine. The waxy, honeycomb, and fleshy pear nuances of the Viura are accented by the exotic, floral, honeysuckle notes of the wine’s aromatically significant Malvasia component, while the Garnacha Blanca adds richness and viscosity. The wine’s barrel fermentation and aging impart additional texture and grip alongside delicious accents of vanilla, smoke, spice, and limestone minerals. Enjoyable now, Muga’s 2020 Blanco is poised for another decade of effortless ageing and improvement. This wine is a wonder for food versatility, perfect with Manchego cheese, tapas, paellas, braised pork, and potato dishes. Along with the Reservas and Gran Reservas from López de Heredia, Muga’s Blanco is one of the truly great examples of the genre – at a fraction of the price.
Josh Raynolds, Vinous: 92 points
A March 2022 newsletter selection
