Year-in and year-out, the rosé from Bodegas Muga is one of the most distinctive and compelling entries in a very crowded and competitive field. Muga’s rosé, a traditional Riojan clarete (a co-ferment of red and white grapes in large, upright wooden vats) casts a pale watermelon-pink color and beguiling aromas of red currants, Rainier cherries, tart raspberries, jasmine, and chalky mineral dust. Simultaneously crisp and mouth-filling on the attack, the 2021 rosé fuses the rich, resinous texture of Viura (30%) with the brisk acidity of Tempranillo (10%), and the red-fruited juiciness of wine’s dominant Garnacha component. The wine enjoys an impressively long fermentation and a leisurely sixteen-week rest period on its lees in large wooden barrels. The brief sojourn in wood imbues the wine with resinous qualities that contribute impressive texture and dimension. Muga’s rosé finishes with complex notes of blood orange zest, juicy cherries, apricots, white pepper, pink rose petals, and chalky-clay minerals. It leaves the palate clean, refreshing, and impossible to resist another sip. This is truly one of the finest and most distinctive rosés of a great vintage, and sure to be a terrific partner with grilled salmon, ceviches, vegetable tortillas and frittatas, paellas, and rich seafood stews.
James Suckling: 92 points
Josh Raynolds, Vinous, 92 points
An August 2021 newsletter selection
