Tokaji, Hungary
In northeastern Hungary, the Tokaji-Hegyalja zone developed the world’s first wine appellation system over a century before Bordeaux. In 2007, Hajdú János and Farkas Krisztián founded the Bodrog Borműhely (workshop) with the intention of crafting pure, modern, yet classically-inspired dry wines. Today the duo works organically to craft an impressive portfolio from a bevy of Tokaji’s finest vineyard sites. Bodrog Borműhely’s Dry Tokaj, a blend of Furmint (70%) and Hárslevelű, radiates a pale, green-tinged lemon-gold in the glass followed by a kaleidoscopic aromas of fresh pears, lime zest, smoky minerals, linden leaf, and honeysuckle. Bone-dry on the palate, expressions of fresh lemon, quince, and white peony tea join with a persistent mineral undercurrent and a gripping, tactile saline palate presence. Notes of tart papaya, green almonds, and bay leaf emerge as the wine lingers, clean and dry, on the finish. Enjoy Bodrog Borműhely’s 2019 Dry Tokaj now and over the coming five years as an attention-grabbing apéritif or, ideally, paired at the table with mild pork sausages, broiled salmon, chicken goulash, pan-fried trout, hearty potato recipes, and savory bean stews.
An August 2022 newsletter selection
