Terlano’s 2020 Pinot Bianco is thrilling us with its intensity, energy, and verve. Located in the foothills of the Alps near Italy’s border with Austria, the Alto Adige’s wines convey the delicious confluence of French grape varieties, Italian boldness, and Austrian precision. From steep slopes on Monte Tschöggl, the great Cantina Terlano crafts a beauty of a Pinot Blanc that expresses everything we love about the grape. A green-glinted lemon-gold in the glass, Terlano’s Pinot Bianco casts mineral-driven Meyer lemon and tart pineapple fruit accented by green tea leaves, dusty minerals, and crunchy suggestions of freshly shaved fennel. Taut, coiled, and bristling with energy, the wine layers the palate with fleshy yellow apple fruit driven by an electric mineral undercurrent and gorgeous suggestions of chamomile and freshly-crushed lemongrass. Long and gripping, the wine finishes with reprises of juicy pear and kiwi fruit followed by a lashing of smoky minerals. This is reference-setting Pinot Bianco in the inimitable, balanced and refreshing Northeastern Italian motif. Serve now or over the next four to five years with sashimi, Dover sole, brook trout, scallops, quiches, mild cheeses, and vegetable frittatas.
A September 2021 newsletter selection