Castell'in Villa Chianti Classico 2017

Chianti Classico does not get any better – or any more traditional – than this. Bastions of tradition, the Castell’in Villa domaine issues a complete portfolio of the most old-school, long-lived Chiantis from its vineyards in Chianti Classico’s southernmost Castelnuovo Berardenga zone. An absolute winner from the moment it’s poured, the 2017 Chianti Classico sports a crimson-ruby hue and warm Chianti aromas of macerated cherries, cedar, woodspice, and leather. The wine continues with a firm red-fruited palate expression accented by an electric current of dusty, chalky soil. Suggestions of Montmorency cherries, pomegranate, and red plums grace the palate before segueing to complex hints of tobacco, sage, licorice, wintergreen, and dried bay leaf. Graceful yet firmly tannic on its long finish, Castell’in Villa’s Chianti announces that it is first and foremost a food wine and should be paired with hearty, rustic fare like rich pasta dishes, roasts of lamb or beef, or long simmered stews. Drink now to reminisce about the way great, age-worthy Chianti used to be, and then age some bottles long enough to last you six to nine years. 

Antonio Galloni, Vinous: 92 points