From 81-year-old vines in Beaujolais’ smallest and rarest cru, Pascal Aufranc’s 2018 single-vineyard En Rémont Chénas opens with a saturated black-ruby color and gorgeous aromas of freshly crushed black raspberries, black currants, game, pepper, salty granitic minerals, and spicy cinnamon. Aufranc’s Chénas follows with palate-staining blackberry and elderberry fruit complemented by fine, food-friendly tannins, dusty granitic minerals, and floral notes of iris and violet. The wine’s old-vine concentration is spotlighted on its long, persistent finish, which add notes of bitter cherry skin, licorice, mustard seed, white pepper, and fruitwood smoke. Delicious now with a vigorous decant, Aufranc’s Chénas also has the poise and concentration to improve over the next seven years in your cool cellar. Perfect with the full spectrum of poultry and small birds, it will also serve a lovely foil for braised rabbit, coq au vin, hearty stews, and dishes featuring chanterelle mushrooms. Sensational Chénas!
Josh Raynolds, Vinous: 92 points
A January 2021 newsletter selection
