Liguria, Italy
To fashion the Durin estate’s impressive portfolio of Ligurian delicacies, winemaker Antonio Basso tends 259 separate, small vineyards on steep hillsides just three miles away from the Mediterranean Sea. Italy’s noble Vermentino grape inherits an iodine, saline complexity thanks to Durin’s vineyards’ proximity to the sea. Durin’s 2019 Vermentino casts a limpid medium gold robe followed by mineral-driven expressions of quince, yellow melon, chamomile, and sunflowers. Impressively taut on the palate, the wine relaxes on the finish to reveal further expressions of yellow plum and star fruit infused with complex notes of sorrel, iodine, fennel, and quinine. Salty minerals dust the lips and inner cheeks as the wine lingers on its long, brisk, and joyful finish. Distinctive and truly terroir-driven, Durin’s Vermentino demands food and will prove a wonderful choice now and over the coming two years with antipasti, grilled whole fishes, fritto misto, white pizzas, seafood and vegetarian risottos, sauteed zucchini, and pastas dressed in garlicky pesto.
A December 2020 newsletter selection