Collio, Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy
This is a splendid Collio Rosso with one foot honoring the great wines of Bordeaux and the other firmly entrenched in the unique and expressive traditions of Italy’s north-easternmost province. The rolling limestone and clay hills of the Collio DOC, located in far northeastern Italy near its border with Slovenia, have a long and successful history of growing noble French red and white grape varieties. Hailing from vineyards in Collio’s esteemed Vencò-Dolegna del Collio sector, Fantinel’s Venko Rosso – a blend of Merlot (50%), Cabernet Franc, and Pinot Nero – opens with and deep claret color and classic Right Bank suggestions of ripe black plums, cassis, vanillin French oak, licorice, and loamy earth. The Venko explodes on the palate with palate-staining expressions of wild blueberries, plum skin, aniseed, and button mushrooms. Firm, cheek-dusting tannins and a delicious hint of the good ol’ funk emerge to transition the wine to its long, savory, earthy finish. With two years’ ageing in large oak casks and another eight in the bottle, this beauty is ready for your table tonight with hearty fare such as roast beef, lamb stews, braised lentils, and dishes spotlighting earthy morel mushrooms.
A March 2022 newsletter selection
