Ninth-generation winemaker Michael Malat continues the family’s long viticultural tradition by crafting an impeccable portfolio of French and traditional Austrian varieties from many of the Kremstal’s finest vineyards. Malat fashions his Furth Grüner from rocky loess soils at the foot of the famed Göttweiger Berg on the southern bank of the Danube River. A brilliant green-gold robe in the glass, Malat’s Furth casts delicious Grüner aromas of sweet pea pods, Pippin apple skin, white grapefruit, lime zest and green peppercorns. Fresh and driven by saline minerals on the palate, the wine conveys the brilliance of the 2020 Kremstal vintage with crunchy, juicy expressions of lemon, lime, tart pineapple, papaya, and Mirabelle plum fruit accented by white pepper and a spicy lashing of deep, salty loess soil. Enjoy this delicious, balanced, and eminently quaffable Grüner now and over the coming two years by itself or alongside sautéed green vegetables, grilled zucchini, schnitzel, braised pork, antipasti, and roast chicken.
Stephan Reinhardt, Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate: 90 points
A January 2022 newsletter selection
