In a region dominated by red wines, Vernaccia stands alone as Tuscany’s premier white. Vernaccia finds its singular voice in the predominately sandy soils around the medieval hillside village of San Gimignano. This bold, rich, long-macerated Vernaccia from Elisabetta Fagiuoli’s Montenidoli domain shows the serious, traditional, age-worthy side of the much beloved Vernaccia di San Gimignano appellation. A medium golden hue in the bowl, the wine casts deep aromas of Bosc pear, golden apple, juniper, and fresh sage. Shimmering, intense, and palate staining, Montenidoli’s 2019 Tradizionale meshes fleshy pear and yellow apple fruit with suggestions of fresh bay leaf, bitter orange peel, and spicy ginger. Long, resinous and tactile on the finish, the wine adds notes of almond skin, turmeric, and quinine. While the delicacy of most Vernaccias command light seafood as their complement, Montenidoli’s intense Tradizionale demands richer fare such as poultry, pork and game birds, grilled prawns, or warm-water fish such as swordfish, ahi, or branzino, and salty cheeses such as Pecorino. Serve now or over the coming five years. Don’t miss this serious, genre-busting Vernaccia that raises the bar for the denominazione in terms of complexity, intensity, richness, and age-ability.
