In the rural areas north of Lisbon, old “backyard” vineyards are being abandoned due to the ageing of the owners and the next generation’s choice to pursue fortunes elsewhere. Andre Gomes, the winemaker at Quinta do Montalto, took action to save two legendary patches of 120- to 150-year-old vines. The 2018 Nao Condenado (uncondemned) employs the traditional Portuguese method called “palhete,” which ferments red and white grapes together to craft one delicious, aromatic, and utterly unique red wine. The cuvee – roughly equal parts of white Fernao Pires and red Trincadeira – casts a rusty, crimson-ruby hue in the glass followed by ripe aromas of raspberry, fig, black plums, cherry blossoms, and peppercorns. Deep and peppery on the palate, chewy cherry and raspberry fruit mingle with suggestions of dried herbs, Serrano peppers, gamy salumi, tamari, and cassia. At once both tart and ripe, the juxtaposition of these impressions and textures – alongside the sappiness of the old vine fruit – make this an ideal selection for picnics and a natural partner for grilled meats, carnitas tacos, meat and potato tapas, and mild Chinese, Korean, and Vietnamese cuisines. Enjoy now and over the next two years.
