Lisboa, Portugal
In the rural areas north of Lisbon, ancient “backyard” vineyards are being abandoned due to the advancing age of the owners and the next generation’s choice to pursue fortunes elsewhere. André Gomes, the winemaker at Quinta do Montalto, took action to save two legendary patches of 120- to 150-year-old vines. The winery’s Uncondemned cuvée (Não Condenado) employs the traditional Portuguese method called “palhete,” which ferments red and white grapes together to craft one delicious, aromatic, and utterly unique red wine. Fashioned from roughly equal parts of white Fernão Pires and red Trincadeira, the wine casts a translucent, crimson-ruby hue in the glass followed by opulent aromas of strawberries, boysenberries, figs, sweet cherries, jasmine, and pink peppercorns. Fresh, chewy, and peppery on the palate, cherry and tart raspberry fruit join infusions of dried herbs, peppered salumi, tamari, cinnamon, and honeysuckle. At once floral, opulent, tart, and ripe, the juxtaposition of these impressions and textures – alongside the sappiness of the old vine fruit – make this a natural partner for salumi, grilled meats, carnitas tacos, meat and potato tapas, and mild Chinese, Korean, and Vietnamese cuisines. Enjoy now and over the next two years.
A January 2022 newsletter selection
