Ribeira Sacra, Spain
Grown on steep, terraced granite slopes in far northern Spain, the Ribeira Sacra boasts a winemaking history dating back to Roman times. The difficulty of working these slopes caused many of the region’s finest vineyards to be abandoned in the 20th century. Fortunately for wine lovers, these terraced hillsides are being rediscovered and rededicated to the production of wine. Casting an opaque black plum robe, Fernandez’s Cruceiro presents pure, chewy black cherry and plum fruit lifted by tangy acidity and dissolved slate minerality. Smoky, earthy, suave, and gently tannic, the Cruceiro continues with persistent waves of smoky, slate-driven cherry fruit backed by suggestions of cinnamon, cracked black pepper, star anise, leather, and tobacco. This is a seriously delicious Mencía that drinks well today with heartier fare and will repay three to five years’ aging in your cool cellar. Enjoyable by itself, will also prove a lovely partner with roast pork, chorizo, paellas, tapas, grilled mushrooms, braised rabbit, and recipes featuring smoky pimentón.
A June 2020 newsletter selection
