Travaglini’s Gattinara is one of the finest and most historically important wines from the Alto Piemonte. Planted on steep slopes between 900 and 1,300 feet, Travaglini takes full advantage of its superior vineyard sites and iron-rich soils to craft a brilliant, terroir-expressive Gattinara. Showing a translucent crimson-garnet color in the glass, shading to traditional Nebbiolo orange-amber rim, Travaglini’s 2017 Gattinara blossoms with aeration to reveal complex aromas of cherry blossoms, red raspberries, blond leather, tobacco, rose petals, and perfumed ferrous soil. The Gattinara then stains the palate with sweet cherry fruit lifted by shimmering acidity and framed by gripping, authentic Nebbiolo tannins. The wine’s long, lingering finish adds hints of licorice, tar, leather, leafy underbrush, ferrous minerals, and dried bay leaf. As 2017 is a very precocious vintage in Alto Piemonte, this wine is ready for your table tonight or over the coming decade. Serve it decanted with hearty fare like beef stew, risotto con funghi, roast leg of lamb, and eggplant parmigiana. Don’t miss this world-class Nebbiolo from Gattinara’s most prominent producer at a most comfortable price.
Monica Larner, Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate: 91 points
